Baja Bound, at Last!

Anticipation!  The COVID-19 lockdowns have kept us close to home for over a year.  Now, watching the infections and deaths declining, and being fully vaccinated, we are more than ready for a trip away from home, away from the oh-too-familiar scenery.  We are off to a Baja adventure, much like our many past junkets.

Our plan is to visit Valle de Guadelupe for some fine food and drink, then to San Felipe, Bahia de Gonzaga and Bahia de San Ignacio to do some serious whale watching. From there, take some scenic back roads to Scorpion Bay (aka San Juanico). We’ll visit Loreto, Santa Rosalia, Bahia Los Angeles, Muleje and San Felipe.

We’re traveling in a new vehicle for us… after the demise of our 1989 ‘Blanca’, we now have a 2002. This will be her maiden voyage to Baja.

Day One: We’re off!  And the rain is on!  Steady nearly the whole four hours, with powerful downpours and even a few moments of sleet just as we left Tecate!

The border formalities were nothing special, except for finding the parking and the actual office for Migracion. Masks were on everyone and a guard took our temperature before allowing us in.  We don’t mind the precaution. Inside Migracion, a single man sat at a desk, ready to examine the FMM forms we had gotten in advance. He stamped them and carefully collected the inbound form and returned the exit forms to us.

Tecate looks much the same, though it is gentrifying and has more and more upscale restaurants and shops.

The drive to Valle de Guadalupe was uneventful and brought back memories of prior trips and the ‘Tecate to Ensenada Bike Race’ that we participated in years ago along the same 75 miles.

In Baja, things are fluid. Hotels, restaurants and such come and go. We were on a hunt for a gourmet food truck we’d eaten at before. No luck. Getting hungry, we decide to turn at a sign for Ojo Azul and Almatierra and followed the dirt track to an elegant property with attractive casitas.  The guard checked our temperatures and directed us to the restaurant.  We were a little concerned that the restaurant was serving only inside, but the care with hand sanitizing and another temperature check, along with the fact that we were the only diners in the room made us feel comfortably safe.

The menu offered stunning farm-to-table cuisine.  Duck tostadas – three petite stacks with a wonderful spicy avocado paste and other features.  Lamb sliders on blue corn masa.  A Bohemia for Fred and Sauvignon Blanc for me.  

Now off to El Alamo, the motel where we have stayed before.  The rooms are bungalow-style with separate heating sources.  It’s casual, Lava is welcome, although he was thoroughly vetted by Chocolate, the alpha dog among the several that hang out at El Alamo. Another attraction here is their delicious traditional breakfasts. (Read chilaquiles and huevos rancheros!)

It’s also conveniently just down the road from Finca Altozano, a unique property with multiple food options on a sprawling wine estate.  We’ve dined there before and will dine there tonight. And again….. the brussels sprouts appetizer, grilled trout and shrimp make for a fantastic meal.

The atmosphere was a stormy night, but it made it all the more special.